Brandon Maxwell has meticulously refined his distinctive selling point over recent seasons, honing in on the essence of his craft. This clarity is evident in both his designs and the way he articulates his creative journey. During a showroom appointment, he likened the process to a “brand renovation,” emphasizing the evolution of his sensibility. Rather than demolishing the house, he sees it as updating to align with his current vision. In his new pre-fall collection, Maxwell revisits pieces from as far back as 2015, showcasing a commitment to timeless design.

For instance, the creamy top in look 2 has undergone a transformation, now crafted in soft bias-cut silk compared to its earlier iteration in a deemed “impossible” heavy fabric. Similarly, the black elegantly cowl-necked dress in look 19 has evolved from its lime green, backless predecessor.

In the realm of design, Maxwell’s aesthetic can be aptly described as dramatic minimalism. Even with a fully covered back, the cowl neck dress remains a captivating piece. The lookbook-opening one-shoulder dress, featuring an asymmetrical drape across the bodice, is visually striking. Despite its sensually streamlined appearance, achieving the perfect drape required several dozen iterations, according to Maxwell. While the focus is on evening wear, he does not neglect tailoring, as evidenced by a side-buttoning black jacket with popped lapels, paired smartly with a maxi skirt in pleated georgette.